What is an annual? Does a perennial live longer than an annual?
How long does a shrub live? The following descriptions will help answer these and other questions you may have about plants.

ANNUALS: A plant that completes its life cycle in a year or less.

Annuals are generally planted twice a year in most parts of the Bay Area. In the most temperate parts of of the Bay Area or in a protected area of your garden, many annuals can survive for a year or more because the summer months are cooler and the winter months only experience mild drops in temperature. Annuals are planted twice a year, once in early spring and again in the fall.

Annuals can be bought in cell-packs, jumbo packs, and 4" and gallon containers. I only recommend gallon containers if you need immediate impact since annuals grow quickly. Therefore jumbo-packs and 4" containers are generally a good size to start with.

PERENNIALS: A fleshy plant that generally grows well for 2-4 growing seasons.

In our climate, most perennials, especially those in containers, are treated as annuals (they are replaced after 6 months or so).Of couse it is possible to leave a desirable "cut-back" perennial in you container, and then surround it with a few jumbo sized annuals to fill the void until the plant recovers. Perennials can be planted almost any time of the year in the Bay Area. Fall and early spring are the optimum times to plant perennials. These plants are usually purchased iin a 4" or one gallon size.

The best time to plant perennials is in the fall. Planting at this time allows the plants to establish a strong root system and our mild winters generally means that they will suffer with little damage (only minor foliage dieback). Though these plants may establish very little foliage during the winter months, once the warm spring weather comes they will grow vigorously and endure our long hot summers with ease.

Planting during the summer months is less desirable, but still o.k. if care is taken to protect the new plants from the hot afternoon sun, by moving the container to a shady spot for a while or by shading the planter with a piece of cardboard. Take special care to keep new plants moist during this adjustment period.

SHRUBS: A woody plant that generally lives for many years.

Some examples of shrubs are roses, or citrus trees. They are usually purchased in the 1,5, or 15 gallon container size. Some shrubs, roses for instance, need to be pruned back once a year. In the Bay Area, we often grow shrubs that are "frost tender," meaning that when the weather in our area is colder than usual, these plants can suffer from frost damage. When these "frost tender" plants are cut back in the spring, after having frost damage, they often recover quickly.

Planting these "frost tender" exotics in containers placed against structure and under eaves will give then the needed protection to survive our infrequent cold spells will little or no damage.

The life span of shrubs vary. Most shrubs live ten plus years, but some shrubs die-out after 5-7 years. A sub classification of shrubs called "shrublets" generally look their best for 2-4 years and are often frost tender.

Shrubs can be planted at any time of the year. Plants that are "frost tender" and border-line hardy in our climate are best planted in spring after any chance of frost. Citrus, which tend to thrive in containers, are an example of a "frost tender" shrub which needs to be planted in the spring. Fall and winter is a great time to plant hardy shrubs, since it gives them plenty of time to adjust before the hot summer months arrive.

• DEAD-HEADING: Removing the dead flower heads from a plant. This helps to elongate the life of the plant as well as maintain the beauty of the plant. This is particularly true in a container garden where one dying plant can greatly reduce the overall aesthetic of the garden.
• DIEBACK: Browning of the leaves of a plant.
• FOLIAGE: The leaves of a plant.
• HARDINESS: The ability of the plant to withstand changes in weather. Particularly it's strength in withstanding cold weather.
• LEGGY: When a plant has long stems, with few leaves.
• ROOTBALL: The "ball" of soil and roots that cling to a plant when it is removed from the ground or a container.
• ROOT-BOUND: When a plant in a container has run out of room for it's roots to grow it will become root-bound. This will manifest in roots that look jumbled and overlapped, as if there is no more room for them to grow. In this condition the plants are stressed, which will curtail their future growth.
• STRESS: Stress refers to any mistreatment that may hamper the future growth of a plant. Certain causes of stress include watering (both over and under watering), excessive heat or cold, or even too much wind. The results of stress include dieback, legginess, and wilting.
• ZONES: Zones are used in gardening to represent the minimum temperature range in a region of the United States or Canada, and thus reflect the plants which can survive in each zone. A map designed by the United States Department of Agriculture, based on minimum temperatures throught these countries defines these regions. It ranges from Zone 1, which is the coldest, to Zone 11, which is the warmest. The Bay Area, lies in zone 9, and is one of the more temperate regions of the country.